Summary: /* Eliminate drafts */
[[Image:Windowsweather.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Photo by Greg Emel/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hillsdalehouse/1795065154/ Flickr]/CC]]
The arctic cold is creeping in again in the Northern Hemisphere, and we're all cranking up the heat. As nice as your heater is, you're wasting a good bit of energy -- and money -- if your windows aren't properly weatherproofed. But with a few inexpensive fixes, you can stop the chill from coming indoors and sending your heating bill through the roof.
Here's our guide to the tried-and-true DIY methods of stopping leaks and weatherproofing your windows.
''This article is part of '''a wiki anyone can edit.''' If you have advice to add about battling the chill, log in and contribute.''
==Eliminate drafts==
The most critical step is to simply fix up your existing windows. Give your windows a thorough inspection for cracks, gaps and holes. If there are any cracked panes, replace them or seal the cracks with clear caulk. Check the putty around the edges of the glass, and seal any cracked or missing areas.
Remember that it's entirely possible for air leaks to come from both inside and outside. Inspect the exterior of your window for gaps, missing weatherstripping or other damage. Exterior repairs can usually be made with a quality latex caulk, just be careful that the caulk doesn't interfere with the operation of the window.
===Seal the sill===
If drafts are your problem, check the crack at the bottom of the window where the window meets the sill. This is where cold air often creeps in through.
To block the crack, fill a pair of socks with rice or lentils and tie off the tops. Lay the filled socks across the window sill. Of course, make sure the socks are nice-looking, and sturdy enough to hold the rice. You can also get some bean bags and lay them across the window sill. Or, measure the length of the sill and sew your own long bean bag for a custom fit.
===Add weather stripping===
The next step is to get some weather stripping and seal the edges of your windows. Weather stripping is cheap and will go a long way toward keeping out those drafty flows of outside air.
<blockquote style="margin-left:20px; padding:10px 0;�border-bottom:5px solid #333; border-top:5px solid #333; display:block; float:right; width:200px; font-size:12px; color:#666;">Vinyl is your best bet, especially if you live in a place with some pretty extreme weather conditions. It's waterproof, durable and forms a tight seal. Foam and felt are cheap, but they aren't as durable and the seal isn't as tight. All of these options come in self-adhesive strips. If vinyl's too ugly, you can use copper or some other metal, but you'll have to nail it in place.</blockquote>
Measure all the surfaces between the sashes and the frame -- the sashes are the movable pieces that hold the glass panes, and the frame is the box built into the wall that holds the sashes. If you have a double-hang window that slides up on a track to open, make sure you measure across the middle of the frame where the two sashes meet when the window closes. Add up all the measurements, then add 10 to 15 percent to the length to account for mistakes. That's how much stripping you'll need.
Apply the stripping to both surfaces to be sealed, keeping things snug in the corners. Make sure the seal is tight when the window is closed.
The areas where you're attaching the strips needs to be clean and smooth. You might need to do some light scraping or sanding if you have old weather stripping that's worn off.
===Seal your windows with caulk===
Inside, especially on older wood windows that are worn from time and use, there are temporary caulks you can use to seal all the gaps around the sashes for winter temperatures. This seals the sashes of the window to the frame, so you won't be able to open the window, but these caulks peel off easily so you can remove them when the weather warms up, restoring full use of the windows.
Look for the tubes of weather stripping caulking marked "removable" and "temporary". They're usually clear, they dry solid and they don't bond to paint or finishing. One tube should be enough for two or three windows.
==Plastic==
[[Image:Windowplastic.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Plastic window coverings are nearly invisible when installed properly. Photo by Christopher Patterson/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/dimmerswitch/2227042738/in/photostream/ Flickr]/CC]]
You're probably familiar with those plastic window-sealing kits they sell at hardware stores. They work surprisingly well -- the idea is to create a pocket of insulating air between the window and the air inside your house. It's the same concept as the one used by double-pane windows, which have pockets of inert gas between the panes. You won't be able to open your windows once you cover them with plastic, but the technique definitely will cut your heating bill down to size.
These kits are easy to install -- just seal the plastic over your window with the provided double-sided tape, then use a hair drier to shrink and tighten the plastic -- but they usually cost around $20 per window.
A cheaper option is to use generic plastic sheeting. It comes in big rolls, and it costs between $3 and $5 per window. The downside is that the result won't be as attractive. Plastic sheeting is on the opaque side, so sunlight will get through to warm the house, but you won't be able to see as clearly through the window. If visibility is important, use the bulk sheeting option on the windows in your house that you don't need to see through, and go with the more expensive kits where you need the plastic to be invisible.
Tip: For extra protection -- using either bulk sheeting or the kits -- put another layer of plastic on the outside of your window as well.
==Coverings==
Double up on curtains. Hanging one set an inch or two from the window, and a second set an inch or two away from the first. It uses the same technique as the plastic by creating an air pocket. It isn't as efficient as plastic, but it's better than nothing.
==Install storm windows==
A storm window is essentially a second piece of glass fitted over your existing window.
There are custom options, but now storm windows come pre-fabricated in the most common sizes. Just head to your local big box home improvement store and pick up a few storm windows that fit your existing windows. Mount them with a drill and screw driver to the outside of your house according to the instructions.
Just like with the plastic coverings, you won't be able to open your windows. Leave a window or two uncovered for ventilation and for escape options-- we recommend the window in the bathroom.
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lifestyle]]
The arctic cold is creeping in again in the Northern Hemisphere, and we're all cranking up the heat. As nice as your heater is, you're wasting a good bit of energy -- and money -- if your windows aren't properly weatherproofed. But with a few inexpensive fixes, you can stop the chill from coming indoors and sending your heating bill through the roof.
Here's our guide to the tried-and-true DIY methods of stopping leaks and weatherproofing your windows.
''This article is part of '''a wiki anyone can edit.''' If you have advice to add about battling the chill, log in and contribute.''
==Eliminate drafts==
The most critical step is to simply fix up your existing windows. Give your windows a thorough inspection for cracks, gaps and holes. If there are any cracked panes, replace them or seal the cracks with clear caulk. Check the putty around the edges of the glass, and seal any cracked or missing areas.
Remember that it's entirely possible for air leaks to come from both inside and outside. Inspect the exterior of your window for gaps, missing weatherstripping or other damage. Exterior repairs can usually be made with a quality latex caulk, just be careful that the caulk doesn't interfere with the operation of the window.
===Seal the sill===
If drafts are your problem, check the crack at the bottom of the window where the window meets the sill. This is where cold air often creeps in through.
To block the crack, fill a pair of socks with rice or lentils and tie off the tops. Lay the filled socks across the window sill. Of course, make sure the socks are nice-looking, and sturdy enough to hold the rice. You can also get some bean bags and lay them across the window sill. Or, measure the length of the sill and sew your own long bean bag for a custom fit.
===Add weather stripping===
The next step is to get some weather stripping and seal the edges of your windows. Weather stripping is cheap and will go a long way toward keeping out those drafty flows of outside air.
<blockquote style="margin-left:20px; padding:10px 0;�border-bottom:5px solid #333; border-top:5px solid #333; display:block; float:right; width:200px; font-size:12px; color:#666;">Vinyl is your best bet, especially if you live in a place with some pretty extreme weather conditions. It's waterproof, durable and forms a tight seal. Foam and felt are cheap, but they aren't as durable and the seal isn't as tight. All of these options come in self-adhesive strips. If vinyl's too ugly, you can use copper or some other metal, but you'll have to nail it in place.</blockquote>
Measure all the surfaces between the sashes and the frame -- the sashes are the movable pieces that hold the glass panes, and the frame is the box built into the wall that holds the sashes. If you have a double-hang window that slides up on a track to open, make sure you measure across the middle of the frame where the two sashes meet when the window closes. Add up all the measurements, then add 10 to 15 percent to the length to account for mistakes. That's how much stripping you'll need.
Apply the stripping to both surfaces to be sealed, keeping things snug in the corners. Make sure the seal is tight when the window is closed.
The areas where you're attaching the strips needs to be clean and smooth. You might need to do some light scraping or sanding if you have old weather stripping that's worn off.
===Seal your windows with caulk===
Inside, especially on older wood windows that are worn from time and use, there are temporary caulks you can use to seal all the gaps around the sashes for winter temperatures. This seals the sashes of the window to the frame, so you won't be able to open the window, but these caulks peel off easily so you can remove them when the weather warms up, restoring full use of the windows.
Look for the tubes of weather stripping caulking marked "removable" and "temporary". They're usually clear, they dry solid and they don't bond to paint or finishing. One tube should be enough for two or three windows.
==Plastic==
[[Image:Windowplastic.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Plastic window coverings are nearly invisible when installed properly. Photo by Christopher Patterson/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/dimmerswitch/2227042738/in/photostream/ Flickr]/CC]]
You're probably familiar with those plastic window-sealing kits they sell at hardware stores. They work surprisingly well -- the idea is to create a pocket of insulating air between the window and the air inside your house. It's the same concept as the one used by double-pane windows, which have pockets of inert gas between the panes. You won't be able to open your windows once you cover them with plastic, but the technique definitely will cut your heating bill down to size.
These kits are easy to install -- just seal the plastic over your window with the provided double-sided tape, then use a hair drier to shrink and tighten the plastic -- but they usually cost around $20 per window.
A cheaper option is to use generic plastic sheeting. It comes in big rolls, and it costs between $3 and $5 per window. The downside is that the result won't be as attractive. Plastic sheeting is on the opaque side, so sunlight will get through to warm the house, but you won't be able to see as clearly through the window. If visibility is important, use the bulk sheeting option on the windows in your house that you don't need to see through, and go with the more expensive kits where you need the plastic to be invisible.
Tip: For extra protection -- using either bulk sheeting or the kits -- put another layer of plastic on the outside of your window as well.
==Coverings==
Double up on curtains. Hanging one set an inch or two from the window, and a second set an inch or two away from the first. It uses the same technique as the plastic by creating an air pocket. It isn't as efficient as plastic, but it's better than nothing.
==Install storm windows==
A storm window is essentially a second piece of glass fitted over your existing window.
There are custom options, but now storm windows come pre-fabricated in the most common sizes. Just head to your local big box home improvement store and pick up a few storm windows that fit your existing windows. Mount them with a drill and screw driver to the outside of your house according to the instructions.
Just like with the plastic coverings, you won't be able to open your windows. Leave a window or two uncovered for ventilation and for escape options-- we recommend the window in the bathroom.
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lifestyle]]
Source: http://feeds.wired.com/~r/howtowiki/~3/Y2hrgYC8zHg/Weatherproof_Your_Windows
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